"One felt the happy sense of being free. One had only to follow a path far enough and one could cross a continent." - Graham Greene
Let's Talk Turkey!
Written by Lori Adkison
Dear Collegian,
We arrived in Istanbul last night. Our hotel owner met us at the airport and then proceeded to give us a midnight driving tour of the historic city. We are still shocked (and a little jet lagged) to be in the land that has been home to every major empire for centuries. Turkey is the perfect geographical, ideological and cultural marriage of East and West. In fact, Istanbul is located in both Europe and Asia!
We planned to get up early and start exploring. Luckily our hotel room window was right next to a minaret from the local Mosque. We were up at dawn with the morning "call to prayer" broadcast right into our room. Will we get used to this loud address five times a day? Our first order of business was to get to the bank to change money.
Turkey is the perfect destination for cash strapped students with a thirst for travel. While times are not so great for the Turkish economy, it's the perfect time to get the most for your travel dollar. At the time of our travels, the U.S. dollar equalled 1,500,000 Turkish Lira! Get used to doing the math on all of those zeros. We traveled in Turkey for 5 weeks and I never got completely comfortable taking two hundred million lira ($134.00) out of the ATM. The only thing that differentiates the denominations is the number of zeros. Every bill has a picture of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Ataturk is the national hero who saved Turkey from division after WWI. Not only did he preserve his country but he enacted sweeping reforms to help westernize the culture such as requiring Turks to adopt a surname for the first time in their history. He chose Ataturk, meaning, "Father of the Turks." He replaced the Arabic alphabet with one having Latin origins. He outlawed the wearing of veils in the universities. In an effort to have his country appear more modern he even outlawed the popular fez hats of the time. Under his leadership Turkey became the democratic and secularized Republic we visit today. In addition to being on all the currency, every town has a least one statue of Ataturk. Every establishment has a least one photo of him, but more likely it will have several.
Dear Collegian,
After three lovely days on the island of Buyukada, we are on a bus traveling east along the Black Sea coast. Buyukada is one of the Prince Islands in the Sea of Marmara right outside of Istanbul. This charming island is home to vacationing Istanbullus. It's a nice respite from the hectic city. There are no cars on the island so people get around by foot, bike or horse drawn carriages. We felt like we stepped back in time listening to the horses along the cobblestone streets.
We have spent the last 12 hours learning about the Turkish bus system. Every time the bus stops we have to figure out how long it will be sticking around, if we have the correct change to pay the restroom attendant and if we should get something to eat (or run the risk of the bus not stopping again for several hours). By the end of the overnight trip I thought I had it all figured out. I counted out my change for the restroom and headed in the direction of my fellow passengers. Imagine my surprise as they all funneled into the Mosque for the first prayer of the day. The stop was a call to prayer, not a call to pee!
Travel around the country is remarkably easy and inexpensive. You can catch a bus anywhere in the country. The bus system is a model of efficiency and comfort. Each bus has a Yardimici or Mauvin (attendant). These attendants collect fares, serve drinks and help unload luggage. They even spritz you with a refreshing lemon water. Backpackers not ready to brave the local bus systems should check out the Fez Bus. You can buy one ticket that allows on/off privileges at all the popular tourist destinations.
Dear Collegian,
We are having a great time in Turkey. All of our travel expectations have been exceeded. To say this is a country of contradictions would not do justice to this remarkable place. Turkey is the land of ancient ruins and new skyscrapers, veiled women and belly dancers and horse drawn carriages battling for the right of way with motorized vehicles. Turkey is the place where scantily clad tourists walk among the conservative Muslims. The land itself offers amazing diversity. Bordered on three sides by sides by coastline, Turkey also boasts mountains, canyons, fantasy rock formations and fertile soils.
Turkey has something for every traveler. For history buffs, Turkey has been home to every major empire for centuries and even boasts findings of the first known civilization. New buildings are tucked away in the remains of Roman Aqueducts in Seljuk. An ancient Greek theater sits virtually unnoticed beside the Mediterranean village of Kas. Wooden Ottoman houses are converted into pensions (boarding houses or small hotels) all across the country. If you are into Greek history and ruins, Turkey is where you will find the famous Greek cities of Troy, Pergamum, Aphrodisias and Ephesus.
Dear Collegian,
After traveling through Eastern and Central Anatolia (Asian Turkey) we are now exploring the Mediterranean Coast. The three coastlines which consist of the Black Sea, the Mediterranean Sea and the Aegean Sea give ample opportunity for water related activities. The beachside resorts are where you will find lots of the tourist related activities. Boat trips on wooden gulets, bars and discos, and lots of fellow tourists make these stops mandatory for the folks in search of a party. Almost every town with a dock and boats will provide you with opportunities for day-long excursions which include lunch, drinks, swimming opportunities and small hiking tours.
Dear Collegian,
The coast has been fabulous but we are missing the authentic Turkey we found away from the tourist hotspots. We found "getting local" infinitely more rewarding than getting absorbed in the massive tour groups found at the popular destinations. Sharing "cay" (tea) in small villages with the town folks, getting to know fellow passengers on long bus trips and practicing "cok az" (very little) Turkish with merchants, waiters and shopkeepers are the resounding memories of our travels. Turks are generous and friendly people. When asked about the favorite experience of our journey we will both recall the men, women and children who warmly welcomed us into their lives.
Dear Collegian,
We are coming to the end of our travels in this amazing land. We did a recap on the top ten things someone must do when visiting this country:
Visit a Turkish Bath (Hamam). There are lots of opportunities since Hamams are in almost every town. In smaller villages there may only be one bath. Women should check for available days or times in which the baths are open to them. While many tourist towns may offer co-ed baths for foreigners, I heartily recommend going for the local experience.
Shop for a Turkish carpet. Whether you are even interested in a carpet or not hardly matters. Turks are born merchants and before you know it you will sharing tea and sifting through carpets. You should go through the ritual at least once. It's a good opportunity to learn about these beautiful keepsakes and learn a little about the culture that produces them. There is no charge to look. Just don't haggle if you have no intention of purchasing.
Visit the Kapili Carsi (The Grand Bazaar). Located in Istanbul this covered maze of shops houses over 4,000 merchants including a whole street or two of, you guessed it, carpet shops.
Check out the weekly markets. If you stick around you'll see an amazing transformation of the city blocks. For instance, in Seljuk the weekly market covers 7 square blocks. You can shop for everything from farming tools to appliances, house wares to spices. Oh, did I forget to mention the food? Unbelievable picture-perfect produce at every turn. Cheese, eggs, nuts and fruit by the truckload. And the vegetables, oh the vegetables! Turkey is one of the only countries that can feed themselves and still produce a surplus.
Take a boat excursion. Whether you go for an afternoon or a week, you won't be disappointed.
Learn some Turkish. Attempting the language will open so many doors. It's hard to tell who will be more pleased, you or the Turks.
Visit a mosque, or better yet visit several. It won't be difficult as they are everywhere. Grandiose and famous mosques and little village mosques all tell a story. It would be an incomplete trip without a visit to some of them.
Get around town on a "Dolmus." The literal translation is "stuffed." Minivans and cars serve as dolmuses. One can get on or off anywhere along the specific route. The driver will keep letting people on even when you think another body could not possibly fit. A great experience and cheaper than taxis!
Eat, eat and eat. With all that locally produced food it's hard to go wrong. Even snacking is pure joy. Vendors abound selling everything from roasted corn to nuts, breads to dondurma (Turkish ice cream). Sit down for a meal of mezes (appetizers) washed down with a little raki. Raki is like the anise-flavored ouzo favored by the Greeks.
Practice the Turkish art of "keyf." Keyf means relaxation. Turks have perfected the practice of keyf. Long hours are whiled away at the tea gardens or over a backgammon board. Every evening the town centers are full of families out for a stroll.
What ever you do, just go. You will be surprised, charmed and dreaming of your next trip.
Gule, gule (go smiling), Lori and Christian
P.S. We were in Turkey during the September 11th attacks in the United States. We found the Turkish people concerned and sympathetic. We never experienced any anti-American sentimentality and felt very safe in our travels. When planning any international travel you should always check current political situations and travel recommendations. We would not hesitate to visit again. |
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