I was searching the web for a fun, outdoor summer job when I stumbled across an ad for a sea-kayak guide on San Juan Island. With a degree in zoology and a lot of experience teaching different sports as well as outdoor education, the guiding job blended my past experiences perfectly. I could be outdoors, recreating, teaching people about nature and conservation, and best of all, kayaking with whales, seals and porpoises in their natural environments! I couldn't pass up the opportunity, so I grabbed a carload of camping gear and was northwest bound!
As the ferry sailed for an hour through the San Juan Islands, I was brought back to my days sailing the sounds of New Zealand amongst desolate islands of all sizes littered with trees and huge ferns. Here in the Puget Sound, snow covered peaks loomed in the distance, which captured the clouds and left the San Juans to bask in ongoing sunshine. Sailboats and kayakers danced in the distance between islands. Relaxation and recreation were in the air.
The San Juan Islands are nestled in Puget Sound, between the northernmost Washington and Vancouver Island. They are accessed only by boat and are a perfect place to bicycle, kayak, hike, camp and relax. As the ferry unloaded at the main port of Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, visitors were welcomed with the pleasant air of quaint shops, ice cream parlors, outdoor seafood restaurants, an appealing corner brew pub, and an awesome guitarist in the park next to the marina. Main Street was loaded with kayak trailers and passenger vans ready to whisk their guests across the island to make magical memories on the water.
The guide outfit I worked with, Sea Quest Expeditions, was the only company that required their guides to have a college degree. Because of this requirement, we were educated naturalists as well as guides. Sea Quest offered 1-5 day whale watching/camping trips throughout the San Juan archipelago, which consists of hundreds of islands and reefs, many of which are national wildlife refuges where humans aren't allowed.
Strong currents from the Pacific Ocean sweep quickly around the southern tip of Vancouver Island and push up Haro Strait between Vancouver Island and San Juan Island. Haro Strait is a popular migration route for orcas as they feed on salmon headed to the Frasier River in Canada. This makes the area a popular spot for many kayak groups and orca enthusiasts. Because of the strong currents within the strait, it becomes extremely important for anyone on a watercraft to be able to predict the currents, their effects, and how to handle emergency situations. Our boss led us through a rigorous two week training program preparing us to independently guide our guests in any environmental condition. Knowledge is a matter of life or death on the water at all times, especially when you're dealing with 50 degree water that can cause hypothermia in 20 minutes, and in an area where wind and water can make paddling very challenging. Luckily, our company incorporated sturdy, dependable boats, well-planned and flexible itinerary, and often more than one guide to ensure safety and enjoyment.
A few roads wind across the island, some inland amongst patches of native fireweed, blackberries, and ferns, and others coastal along grassy hillsides and steep rocky shores littered with beautiful madrona trees that radiate their red-orange bark at sunset. Some of my days off were spent biking these roads while taking carefully timed breaks at the lighthouse to watch orcas, at the island's lavender farm to soak in loads of lovely scents, and lastly at one of the handful of freshwater lakes for a refreshing dip. After picking up guests in town, I'd drive them across the island to our launch site on the west side of the island, north of the lighthouse. As our van full of anxious clients approached the beach, I'd hope the morning fog had lifted enough to see across Haro Strait to the mountains of Vancouver Island or the snow-capped peaks of the Olympic Mountains to the south. What an amazing backdrop to our kayak trip!
Occasionally we saw members of the three resident orca pods passing in front of the shore, and often they would pass us while we were paddling. Two main types of orca whales exist: "Residents," which have a smaller migration route and feed on fish, and "transient" orca pods which travel much further and feed on marine mammals. All orcas are identified by their saddle patch, the white coloring near their dorsal fin. Each time we paddled, we were almost guaranteed to see harbor seals' heads bob up within the kelp beds, and bald eagles perched in large Douglas fir trees. The San Juan Islands have the largest population of nesting pairs of bald eagles in the lower U.S. - 100 total pairs with a nest nearly every 5 miles. It's amazing to see these beautiful birds slowly soaring overhead or subtly perched in a limb watching us as we paddled beneath. After a day on the water, you can get a taste of how beautiful it is here, but the multi-day trips are the best way to capture the true magnificence of the islands.
Nothing beats a phosphorescence moonlight paddle, when the water is like glass and the soft sounds of ripples radiate with each light stroke of your paddle. This feeling pays off even more when most of the day was a tough paddle around an entire island or across a swift channel. You feel so small on the great sea next to 30 ft long orca whales and hundred foot long bull kelp. Lunch would be on an isolated beach that seemed to be set in the middle of nowhere, as all you saw were other forested islands and no civilization. We camped at established campsites that were used only by man-powered vessels, complete with an outhouse and drinking water - what luxuries! After a hearty meal by the fire, we'd hike to a large bluff where we sat stunned by the breathtaking sunset over the Canadian islands, as schools of porpoises glided along in their huge playground beneath us. Some of my best night's sleeps were alone on the dark shoreline listening to seals bark in the distance as the huge moon climbed from the horizon to join a myriad of shooting stars and planets in the brightly painted sky.
Pancakes never smelled better than in the woods, as everyone was breaking down camp before another day of paddling. Each group really became a team that supported and encouraged each other throughout our trips. My favorite multi-day trip was with a group of recovered cancer patients that were all under the age of 23. These children had such an amazing life and were so strong. In this environment, they were pushed to do things they never imagined they could do. I realized they'd been through things I could never imagine. I also enjoyed watching a high school boy scout group get their attitudes seriously adjusted as I demanded they paddle even harder to avoid getting swept away by the currents and left somewhere in Canada. All of our trips ended on a high note, with many guests wanting to continue exploring the islands for days longer. However, I enjoyed time off "work," to relax at home in my 9 x 9 tent on 40 acres of forest, only cleared in places where we had a kitchen area, fire pit, and pond. I would often lie quietly in my tent feeling directly connected to the sights and sounds of nature and would look up through the windows to the canopy of trees overhead. Living within the woods, awakened and put to sleep with the sun's rays and birds chirping, is like nothing else.
If you are an animal lover, outdoor enthusiast, and ocean baby, or if you'd just like to relax and explore a special place in the northwest, check out the San Juan Islands. Orca, Lopez and San Juan Islands are the largest in the group and each have their own flair and fun. San Juan has the largest community, full of artistic, spirited people. Orca Island has beautiful state parks and good fishing. Lopez Island is extremely hipped out and is well known for great mountain biking. Also, while exploring Puget Sound travel over to Seattle, Vancouver or Victoria, B.C. to check out their amazing culture and events.
For your next trip, head to the wild northwest and fill yourself with unforgettable experiences. Surround yourself in the serenity, awesome activities and breathtaking scenery that are awaiting you in the San Juan Islands. |
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