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Notes From Nicaragua
Story by Lori Adkison, photos by Christian Timmerman
Collegian Travel & Adventure Magazine
Spring/Summer 2004 |
It happened as soon as the sun disappeared behind the towering volcano and I lost sight of the horizon. I was seasick. The boat tossed and bobbed so much that it felt more like we were on the open sea instead of a lake.
The waves were splashing over the railings and soon everyone was scurrying to keep their possessions dry. Judging from the faces of those around me, I was not the only one feeling a little green. After four hours on Lake Nicaragua we docked on the island of Ometepe. We picked our way through the myriad of families camped out on blankets and sleeping in hammocks. They still had six more hours of travel until they reached their ultimate destination. We wobbled across the rickety plank to dry land. While it seemed that the boat was already filled to capacity, more families anxiously waited to board. Along with these new passengers, tons of freshly harvested bananas were to be loaded for export. Leaving the boat and bananas behind, we were quickly herded into the back of a waiting pickup truck with the urgency that only happens when there is a twice per week tourist influx. While backing out of the small docking area, we crashed right into another truck. Luckily for the passenger standing on the bumper we hadn't yet gained the speed to cause serious injury. Welcome to Nicaragua.
Nicaragua. The name itself conjures up many perceptions. Most of us think of political uprisings, civil war and turmoil when we think of this Central American country. Fifteen years after the US backed Contra war, Nicaragua finds itself the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere. The average Nicaraguan lives on less than $2.00 a day. The war waged today is more about economics. This does not exactly read like a brochure for a top travel destination. But if you don't mind a little grittier style of travel and like to explore places without the hordes common in other tourist destinations, this is your place. Few of us associate this country with having the most biological diversity in Latin America. Nor do we think of resort style beaches, volcanoes and rainforests. If you are looking for a trip with these attributes, Costa Rica is usually the destination of choice but what if I told you all of this could be yours with less strain on your pocketbook and fewer tourists to share space with? If you are of the mind that a little extra work pays off in worthwhile experiences then you should consider travel to this corner of the world. The Nicaraguan government has a stated goal of making tourism its plan for economic recovery but the infrastructure has yet to be established. Even so travelers are trickling in to see for themselves what this country has to offer. On a recent trip to Costa Rica we found ourselves searching for something off the beaten path. So we took a bus to the Nicaraguan border not knowing entirely what to expect. |
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Our trip began in the lovely colonial city of Granada. Granada is the oldest Spanish city in Nicaragua and was founded by the Spanish explorer Francisco Cordoba in 1524. The central part of town is a showcase of beautiful colonial architecture. Behind the colorful walls lay splendid homes and long family histories. Although tourism is in its infancy we found several affordable lodging options and a variety of restaurants ranging from Spanish cuisine to pizzas. It seems that for the travelers who do venture to Nicaragua, Granada is an inevitable destination. Granada's location makes it a good base for several day trips. The city sits on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, the third largest lake in Latin America. From the shore you can take boat trips to "Las Isletas," a chain of 365 small islands. Or, for those interested in local handicrafts, the town of Masaya is a short bus trip away. We bought the mandatory hammock in the neighborhood that boasts the craftsman of this trade. It is also from Granada that we took our boat trip across the lake to the Isla de Ometepe. This island is made up of two volcanoes, Maderas and Concepcion, joined together by old lava flow. The tourism industry is even slower coming here but this just makes things more interesting. The island offers opportunities to hike volcanoes, tour ancient petroglyphs, view forests and visit organic coffee farms. We saw abundant wildlife on our hike of the Concepcion volcano. Howler monkeys screeched out their greetings to us along the steep and lush path. Birders will be kept busy ticking exotic species off their lists. We toured an organic coffee farm on the shoulders of the Maderas volcano called Finca Magdalena. It was established as a farming cooperative during the Sandinista rule. From the generous and welcoming porch you can look across the island to beautiful views of the volcano Concepcion and Lake Nicaragua. It now operates with help from its sister city in Bainbridge, Washington as an organic coffee plantation.
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While Nicaragua has a history full of challenges and tragedy, the people are resilient. We were constantly rewarded by the friendly smiles and welcoming nature of everyone we encountered. Now is a fantastic time to take advantage of this diamond in the rough and at the same time help the country with its economic recovery. It is a rare opportunity to visit a country that has not yet been "discovered." We have never regretted any decision to travel but the lesser-known destinations are always more satisfying for us. Back at home we sit in our hammocks, drink coffee from Finca Magdalena and dream of our return to Nicaragua.
Resources: Central America on a Shoestring: Lonely Planet |
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