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The Iceman Cometh: Chronicle Of An Adventure
Story by Steven Bailey, Photo by Mark Tjaden
Collegian Travel & Adventure Magazine
Spring/Summer 2003

It was a warm and sunny November day when I first learned of the awesome adventure I was to experience on the Martin Luther King Holiday weekend the following January. My friend and expert climbing guide, Shannon Soloman and I had decided to meet for coffee and talk about the magazine at The Spice of Life, my favorite morning social spot here in beautiful downtown Manitou Springs, Colorado.

I had contacted Shannon to ask him about putting together an article on his greatest joy in life, climbing. This cat will climb anything, anytime, anywhere. He has actually established a route inside a local pub here in Manitou. The place, the Ancient Mariner, the route, well let's see if I remember correctly it begins near the stage, goes up over the pool tables, around the rafters and descends right in front of the bar... very convenient.We met as planned bright and early around 10 am, ordered our favorite stimulating morning concoctions and began looking over some amazing photos of several different climbs in the Moab area. Timing being everything, the next person through the door was another Manitou local and regular at the Spice, Shannon's good buddy, childhood hero and mentor Harvey Carter, A climber since the 40's, and interestingly enough, a man whom has documented more first ascents in the Moab area than any other climber. The photos we were checking out at that moment were of the Ancient Arch, which was indeed one of Harvey's favorite climbs.

Between the shear energy and enthusiasm of these two guys, I was really starting to get stoked about the whole idea of climbing, and the possibility of an article for the Collegian Travel & Adventure Magazine™. Throughout my many years of being an avid outdoor enthusiast, I had mostly resigned myself to being a horizontal kind a guy. (no pun intended) Hiking, trail running, biking, backpacking, even a few 14ers here in the Rockies have my boot print, but the idea of moving straight up a rock, let alone an ice face had rarely crossed my mind until today.

Shannon had recently begun an "Adventure Guiding" partnership with yet another current local and internationally known climber Jangbu Sherpa of Mt. Everest fame. Jangbu, a native of Nepal has successfully summited the "trophy" peak 5 times, twice without oxygen! He moved to the US just three years ago during a promotional tour for the IMAX movie "EVEREST" in which he played an important role as head Sherpa for the expedition. Those of you whom have read "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer will also recall his amazing rescue assistance with that historic & fatal expedition in 1996.

After breakfast Shannon agreed to help with the article but only if I joined him on an annual pilgrimage to Ouray, Colorado (pronounced Your-Ray) in which he and Jangbu had already planned to attend. Well known as an awesome summer destination, Ouray County is also becoming popular as a great winter destination for many adventure seekers. Needless to say, I felt very comforted by the knowledge and expertise of the team I was to hang with, (literally) for the 9th Annual Ouray Ice Festival. I was assured by Shannon that not only was this The World's Premiere Ice Festival, but one kick ass party! So the adventure begins...

Due to an unforeseen emergency, we did not reach Ouray until late on Friday evening. Good thing someone on my staff had made arrangements for accommodations at one of Shannon's favorite digs in town, The Wiesbaden Hot Springs & Lodgings, because the town was packed with over 2000 fellow ice friends. We all got settled into our respective rooms, gathered for a celebratory toast then kicked down for the night. Before the girls got up, Shannon, Jangbu and I joined Mark our freelance photographer friend for a morning soak in the Lorelei, a private, continually flowing natural hot springs within the lodge. Yo baby! Now this is the way to start the day! Outdoors, surrounded by killer views of the snow capped San Juan Mountains against cobalt blue skies. Life is Good!

We decided to hit the competition early. With some of the best male and female climbers in the world competing, I felt this would be a great opportunity to pick up some pointers and some killer shots. Speaking of pointers: clinics and demos have always been a part of the festival activities, with 30 scheduled clinics ranging from Petzl's "Pure Ice Techniques" by Guy Lacelle to Black Diamond's "Women Only" clinic by Kim Czismazia. By the way, admission to the event and the clinics is FREE and the T&A (Tips & Advice) are priceless!!!

That evening, after our diversions at Telluride and Wiesbaden's Vapor Caves (see below), we hit the festival's Live Auction at the Community Center with over $25,000 in gear donated by festival sponsors with proceeds going to the Access Fund and the Ouray Ice Park. This year the festivities had a bit of a twist, as clothing and gear were modeled by local lovelies on a totally pro runway. The place was packed with revelers young and old enjoying get this, FREE BEER ALL NIGHT from the New Belgium Brewing Co. By the time we got there the modeling was beginning to get a bit risqué. We took advantage of the libations and all decided that we needed to be fed. Again, our friends at the lodge hooked us up with the right spot, Buen Tiempo Mexican Restaurant & Cantina. Right on Main Street (of course) and again at the Beaumont. We figured Mexican places tend be more of a party atmosphere and we were right again! We all had a ball and the staff was generous and forgiving.

Up at dawn, NOT! This was going to be a big day for me, my first ice climb. Nervous or maybe just a bit tired from the evening's festivities; I began surveying the surrounding peaks and the Ice Park. Another stunningly beautiful day in the mountains with quite a nice crowd of participants, spectators, vendors, competitors and curious novices like myself. Shannon, Mark and Jangbu located a suitable climbing site while I visited with several vendors up on top who were offering top quality premier demo gear available for the asking by very helpful and knowledgeable reps and pros. This gear is not cheap, but remember your life depends on it and most will last a lifetime. Personally I chose Asolo Boots, crampons from Grivel and Trango ice axes. All these folks were very helpful and attentive.

We got top roped and ready, harness on, knots tied and axe in hand. Did I mention this was also my first time on a rope? Anyway, after some preliminary instruction Shannon told me to face him, relax, put my weight on the rope and back off this 200 ft. ice wall. Now I'm the kind of guy that looks good on a beach, the whole ice cliff thing was definitely pushing my comfort zone. The feeling of stepping off that cliff was both exhilarating and freeing and at the same time terrifying and fearful. After that mind episode was over, I began to be one with the ice. Focusing on my feet first and kicking in a good foot hold. Then after I was comfortable with the initial distance I had descended down the face, I began using the axes and crampons to climb back up to the top. I arrived back at the start point tired, pumped and proud of my new WOW! The other guys also took their turn on the route which was now even more interesting for me to watch knowing what it took to do something that looked so easy from afar. I helped gather our ropes and hard wear, returned the demo gear and walked down the hill a different man. I was now the "Iceman."

Since that awesome weekend, my girlfriend and I have been out several times with Shannon in the Garden of the Gods, a great rock climbing venue right here in Colorado Springs, which again is a place our friend Harvey Carter has documented more first assents than any other climber. I am now beginning to trust the rope, my friend Shannon and my own abilities. Shannon has an uncanny way of pushing us both to our absolute limits... no more no less, that's a great guide! I would recommend this adventure/sport to anyone wanting to get a bit higher, push a bit further or connect a bit deeper with yourself, a friend or partner.

BE SAFE, BE SMART & CLIMB ON!
Freehawk


DIVERSIONS

Telluride
Knowing all too well how to take a wonderful experience and lift it to the tenth power, the Collegian T & A™ staff opted to take the afternoon and hit the legendary slopes up in Telluride. Most say Telluride is named after tellurium, a nonmetallic element associated with rich mineral deposits of gold and silver. Others say it originated from the castaway call "To-Hell-You-Ride" shouted by loved ones who knew of the town's boisterousness. Last years opening of Prospect Bowl, 733 acres of new terrain, nearly doubled the size of the ski mountain, which now has 24% of it's runs groomed for beginners, 38% for intermediate and 38% for expert mogul masters. This year, snowboarders will discover a new and improved Air Garden terrain park, nearly tripled in size with a variety of features, such as fun boxes, rails, tabletops, rainbows and A-frames. Boarding with this crew of "Extreme Junkies" was sick. Shannon had actually warned me before the trip that if we ski together, wear a helmet, if we drink call a cab! (I will take his advice on both counts). By the way, skiing at Telluride continues daily until April 6th. For daily info on ski conditions call (866) 287-5016 or check out their website at www.tellurideskiresort.com.

Vapor Caves
After a rockin' day on the boards, what better activity could you possibly imagine (other than great sex) than soaking in 107 degrees of continually flowing natural hot springs. Hot Dawg, we're back at the Lodge! The Wiesbaden Hot Springs & Lodgings is without a doubt one of the kindest places our staff has ever stayed for an event.

This time we all decided to check out the Vapor Caves located in and under the mountain below Weisbaden. This is a total "Bat Cave" vibe less all the computer equipment, deep in the mountain underneath the Lodge. How cool is that? In the center is an 18" deep pool of 109 degree continually flowing water and around you the walls are dripping with moisture. To me, this was a very spiritual experience, reminiscent of a Native American sweat lodge. The feeling of being deep within the womb of the Mother Earth was very comforting and healing. I had actually come down to the Cave early before the rest of the CT&A™ staff arrived and took the opportunity to play my drum in the empty cave. The sound bouncing off the cave walls was amazingly haunting and I couldn't help feeling that I was NOT alone. (The Ute people who settled in the Ouray area and other tribes who traveled for days to reach the "Miracle Waters" of the Wiesbaden considered them sacred, and still today use them for ceremonial purposes. Chief Ouray himself used to frequent these rejuvenating waters).

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