As we flew from Bangkok to Kathmandu, the towering peaks of the Himalaya beckoned to us from above the clouds. As all the passengers rushed to the windows on the right side of the plane to get their first views of these mighty peaks, I worried that the ancient Royal Nepal airplane would spin out of control. Although the flight was only four hours long, it took us back centuries in time.
All of my reading and dreaming could never have prepared me for the magic and chaos that is Kathmandu. Waking at an early hour in a jet-lagged haze, we took a bicycle rickshaw down to Durbar Square. The local merchants were setting up their wares down side streets. We bargained for some type of fried dough gobs and milk tea for breakfast. Both were prepared in the street on propane stoves inches from speeding rickshaws and motorcycles and their accompanying dust and soot. The fried bread of dubious cleanliness was served up in a greasy newspaper cone. It was delicious. After breakfast we wandered through the ancient temples and watched the locals go about their morning puja (offering) to favorite Hindu deities. It was easy to imagine we were the first foreigners to witness this amazing place. Only later, when the streets were flooded with people hawking everything from Tiger Balm to hashish, did I realize we were merely part of a long line of voyeurs. This did not diminish the magic. Instead, visitors are woven and blended into the colorful tapestry of Nepal.
Christian, two long-distance backpacking friends and myself came together to plan a trek in the country that is the Mecca of foot travel. Our friend Fiddlehead was the trip leader. Having been to Nepal many times in the past, he wanted to share this quintessential hiking experience with us. Fiddlehead introduced us to his long-time Sherpa friends, Gelzen and Kaji Pasang, who helped us coordinate our trip around the Annapurna Circuit. Kaji would accompany us, acting as interpreter, cultural liaison, and drinking buddy. Although this trek can be done without a guide, having a good one can add dimension and cultural insight. For the majority of the trip we would be on the standard teahouse trek. Teahouse trekking eliminates the need to carry tents, cooking equipment and food, making it very convenient for the international traveler. These teahouses are located in almost every village along the route. Some may offer only food or beverages while others offer lodging as well. On a rare occasion you might even get a teahouse with some sort of shower facilities but usually cleaning up means a trip to the village spigot with everyone else.
Our few days in Kathmandu were a whirlwind of sightseeing, trek preparation and cultural acclimatization. Our errands were complicated by the chaotic routine of the city. The People’s Uprising led by the Maoists imposed strikes that shut down public transportation and closed shops. Many shops also closed for the religious festival of “Holi”. Holi is similar to other water festivals in Asia with everyone throwing water and colored dyes. Tourists are favorite targets. We managed to get organized, stay reasonably dry and hop on a bus to our starting point. In doing so we said goodbye to the only road we would see for the next three weeks. We would soon be hiking on trails that have been used for centuries by traders, villagers and travelers alike.
Trekking in Nepal is like starring in a feature presentation at a mountain film festival. Our senses were inundated at every turn. Solitude was an elusive pursuit. It was impossible to achieve the feeling you get when hiking through a wilderness area here in the United States because there are villages and people everywhere. Even at the highpoint of our trip at Thorung La (17,599’) sat a small teahouse. Yet everywhere we looked were imposing landscapes, deep gorges and beautiful views. On the trail, we were often overtaken by porters carrying three backpacks apiece or men carrying huge loads suspended by nothing more that a rope around the forehead. Girls in cheap flip-flop sandals carrying dokos (baskets) of firewood larger than themselves were a common sight. Trekking through the villages provided even more interaction with the beautiful people of Nepal. Since villages are built directly around the trail, we traversed the very heart of their communities. It was possible to buy a Snickers bar, a Coca-Cola and a pack of cigarettes from the same woman who was hand spinning yak wool. The juxtaposition was especially jarring considering that everything sold in these little hamlets had to be transported on the back of man or beast. Many times we were forced off the trail for teams of donkeys transporting a variety of goods, their large bells echoing through the hillsides.
We followed the Marsiyandi River gorge for the first half of the trip. It was impossible to decide what to look at. Stealing attention from the beautiful vistas were long walls of prayer wheels, Buddhist stupas strung with multicolored prayer flags, and terraced hillsides stair-stepping up to ancient villages made entirely from rock (wood is a scarce commodity in Nepal. Many villagers show their wealth by the amount of firewood they have). Visual stimuli leaped out from every angle.
After crossing 17,599’ Thorung La, we headed down the Kali Gandaki river valley. Some claim that this is the deepest canyon in the world based on the fact that two 8000m peaks flank the river. At the holy site of Muktinath, we witnessed many Sadhus or Hindu holy men finishing a pilgrimage that may have started as far away as India. This spot is considered sacred due to the natural gas flames emerging from the ground right next to gushing springs of water. As we dropped lower in elevation and witnessed the change in the vegetation I knew we were nearing the end of our pilgrimage.
While I came to Nepal for the beauty of the mountains, it was the warm and generous spirit of the Nepali people who stole my heart. The sheer amount of diversity, culture, history and religion make it impossible to share all my impressions and leave me humbled in my attempt. Instead of celebrating the realization of my dream, I still have to pinch myself to see if it was real. Once again Nepal is in my dreams.
As with all travel planning, you should check the current political climate before embarking on your journey. Nepal has been embroiled in a People’s War since 1996. The main activity involves government troops fighting Maoist rebels. Tourists have not been targeted but many have been shaken down for bribes. The situation has escalated since our visit and currently the United States State Department recommends against non-essential travel to Nepal. Do your own research. The people of Nepal are suffering from the huge economic impact of a diminished tourist trade. We benefited by the lower tourist numbers but witnessed what a crippling affect it can have on a population that survives on the tourist dollar. |
.jpg)
