Each Tortoise trip is led by two multi-talented drivers. Their most impressive skill, besides navigating Baja's winding roads, is the expert planning and supervising of meals (more on that later). After a little prodding, each driver had many campfire stories to tell, and it became obvious that a great deal of planning goes into every trip. After a few days together, a commonly heard phrase was, "You have the best job in the world!" The enthusiastic response was, "Yes, we do!"
Our group resembled a gathering of the United Nations: countries represented were the United States, Great Britain, Sweden, Poland, Ireland, Japan, Germany, Italy, Columbia, and Ghana. According to our drivers, most Green Tortoise passengers travel solo, and it's not unusual to have such a mixed crowd. This, along with the socially conducive bus layout, helps explain why making new friends on a Tortoise trip is so easy.
The Tortoise takes great pride in its camp-prepared meals, and for good reason! A typical first meal is a breakfast of fresh fruit and bagels including smoked salmon. Pretty fancy for the middle of nowhere. My favorite meal was a tasty Thai curry, with handmade spring rolls. By the way, each Tortoise meal is prepared by the group, under the helpful direction of the fun and fearless drivers. What? You mean we gotta help? Yep - this is just one way the Tortoise keeps the trips both fun and inexpensive. For me, preparing a gourmet meal under a spectacular sunset, with new friends from all over the world was one of the highlights of the trip. Those with an incurable fear of the kitchen can always help with clean up.
After decades of adventure travel tours, the Green Tortoise knows its way around Baja. The Tortoise stops in Catavina, where well-preserved prehistoric cave art left by the indigenous Cochimi Indians is a short hike away. Equally impressive are the ocotillo, boojum, and cardón cacti (which resemble a certain Dr. Seuss character's hat) that seem to sprout directly from the smooth, rounded boulders that comprise the landscape of this section of Baja's Desierto Central.
Exploring spectacular remote landscapes isn't the only reason to tour Baja with the Tortoise, as Baja offers small-town culture as well. San Ignacio resides in an oasis of date palms, nestled incongruously within the desolate landscape of rocky mesas, volcanic cinder cones, and broad plains of the Vizcaíno Desert. Across from the zócalo (town square) stands what many consider Baja's most impressive eighteenth-century Spanish mission, with four-foot-thick walls constructed from blocks of local lava rock. Other stops include La Paz, where a popular pastime is a sunset stroll along the malecón (waterfront walkway), and Mulege, with its Mission Santa Rosa, which overlooks a date palm-lined river.
A destination in late winter and early spring is Laguna Ojo de Liebre, a whale-watcher's delight. This lagoon is prime breeding ground for the Alaskan gray whale, and in late winter is teeming with mothers and their calves. Naturally curious, these gentle giants often come right up to the boat!
The indisputable highlight of a Baja Beach Daze trip is the five days that are spent at the aptly named "Playa Escondida" (Spanish for hidden beach). Given the remote idyllic location, the set-up here is impressive. Centered around a large shade structure (housing a fully-functional kitchen), there is also a cantina stocked with beer and soda, volleyball net, and a giant fire pit - the perfect place for chilling out and sharing stories after a full day of adventure. Whether you're feeling intrepid or simply desire the best shade for a siesta, you won't be disappointed with your options, which include hiking a slot canyon, deep-sea fishing, mule rides, kayaking, snorkeling, or soaking in tidal hot springs. At night we slept right on the beach in tents or directly under the stars, lulled to sleep by the gently-rolling waves of the Sea of Cortez.
No Mexico excursion would be complete without a souvenir for yourself or the folks back home, and the city of Ensenda provides an excellent opportunity for shopping. Although the most "touristy" stop on our journey, the city offers authentic dining and nightlife.The Green Tortoise is ideal for the budget-minded traveler who seeks to venture off the beaten path, but wants the fun and security of doing so with a group. I was truly impressed by the versatility of this tour. Feel like being alone? Take a long walk down the beach. Feeling chatty? There's always someone around to shoot the breeze. Want to burn some calories? Hike up that hill, but don't forget your camera!A particularly pleasurable moment for me occurred early one morning at the beach camp. As I had slept just a few yards from shore, I needed only to open my eyes and sit up to watch the sunrise. As the sky brightened, the wispy clouds turned ever-changing shades of orange. As pelicans glided just above the glassy surface of the sea, a pair of bottlenose dolphins arched out of the water, sounding their signature whistle. I was in heaven, in this wonderful place called Baja, where the desert meets the sea.
The Green Tortoise travels year-round through North America. Baja Beach Daze trips run from November through April. Visit www.greentortoise.com for more info. |
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