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Volcanoes, Glaciers, Blue Waters and the Land of Legos:
The Diversity of Denmark and Iceland
Story by Sara Blask
Collegian Travel & Adventure Magazine
Spring/Summer 2004 |
Uncommonly hip, eco-friendly, and stunningly beautiful, Denmark and Iceland, are must-sees for the spontaneous traveler who enjoys vivid contrast: rural and urban, snow-capped and water-logged, old and new. It's all there - if you have the time and perseverance to endure long, albethem spectacular walks and bike rides, or as is the case in Iceland, seemingly endless jaunts in the car racing down narrow, icy roads with hairpin turns that'll undoubtedly straighten your frizzies.
They did mine at least. But believe you me, they're all controlled skids and well worth the "Please let me live" prayers. The glaciers inspire those even the least bit interested in mountaineering or ice climbing, and the crash of Atlantic water against the island's jagged shores spark wonder about the Vikings' inaugural sail in open wooden boats from Norway in 874 A.D. The views are dramatic from anywhere on the island. The colors on Iceland's flag, red, blue and white, say it all: red symbolizes volcanoes, white indicates glaciers, blue means water. Iceland is by far one of the cleanest, most energy efficient countries in the world. Its dependence upon fossil fuel is minimal and energy is inexpensive and plentiful because of the country's ubiquitous volcanic activity and ever-present glaciers, which provide hydro and geothermal power. It doesn't take a green traveler to notice the many huts dotting the landscape, which are portholes for hot water (and therefore steam), which translates to green electricity. Despite its geographical isolation in the northern latitudes of the Atlantic, the country is almost entirely self-sufficient food-wise save for some grains. Greenhouses abound, and fish, naturally, is a staple and the country's primary income. Bring an emergency stash of PowerBars or beef jerky if you're not a fish-eater. |
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Unlike most European cities, Reykjavik, Iceland's capital, doesn't follow the "big lights, big city" mantra as closely. There's no trash on the ground, no skyscrapers, and no feral rodents to scrounge for leftovers from last night's party. Though summers are hopping, late fall and winter offer travelers a quieter, more subdued, but colder and darker experience. Don't let this discourage you though. Like the population who lives among the country's ever-changing landscape that's forged by fire, honed by ice, be flexible and adapt. One friend in particular offered me some sage advice when I visited in December. "We Icelanders, well, we're strange folks. We turn on the lights when it gets dark," he said. On a clear, cloudless winter's day, there's no need to flip the switch come sunset - the Northern Lights will keep you inspired and speechless outside, warm and bundled in your layers. |
Iceland is neither cheap nor easy to access, especially if you don't plan ahead. Hostels are more reasonable in the off-peak season, as are tour buses that'll take you to the highlands if you don't rent a car. If you're strapped for time and/or money, sign up for a guided tour - they're good bang for your buck and the easiest way to find your way to such hotspots as Gulfoss ("golden falls"), the most renown waterfall in Iceland, Geysir, the second largest hotspring in the world, and the Langjökull glacier - all just a day trip away from Reykjavik. This is enough to whet your appetite for another visit, or maybe another stopover on the way back from your museum and nightlife fix in Denmark.
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Copenhagen is a bike-friendly cultural haven, where museums, music and medieval churches and castles abound. Both bus and train transportation are efficient and easily accessible, making the city an excellent home base for day trips to the countryside and southern Sweden. Like the rest of Scandinavia, Denmark isn't cheap - so if you're scrounging for kroners, take it easy at the bars and instead hike Mons Klint, visit the impressive Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Humelbæk, and if you can handle crowds and spent your childhood constructing mini-dioramas with little plastic blocks, go to Legoland (only open during summer). If your sojourn to the Danish capital falls during the winter months, don't miss an evening strolling through the unforgettable lights and festivities at Tivoli Gardens, which were Walt Disney's inspiration for his adventure parks. The Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde is a must-see for seafarers and if you're a lover of Shakespeare, check out Kronborg Castle in Helsingør, made famous as Elsinore Castle in Hamlet.
Your own two feet are the best modus operandi money can buy. Everything in Denmark is walkable, and it's the finest way to immerse yourself in the happy-go-lucky wonder that characterizes the country and its warm, welcoming and yes, stylish population. Jazz music floats out of open windows and from the depths of basement pubs into the cobblestone streets, as does the aroma of dark coffee and fresh wienerbrød, traditional Danish pastries everyone must try. Danes like to celebrate - for any and every reason. No matter what the season, there's always an itinerary of local festivals, indoor and outdoor concerts, and if you time it right come mid-summer, you can listen your days away at the Copenhagen Jazz Festival, ten days of Danish and international jazz, blues and fusion music.
The Danes are a progressive lot of people. Health care is socialized, sexual openness isn't frowned upon, and neither is squatting or communal For an authentic, albeit eye-opening dose of culture, check out Christiania, located on the eastern side of Christianshavn in Copenhagen. You'll see what I mean.
Icelandair flies daily from Boston to Copenhagen via Reykjavik. If you're looking to explore Scandinavia on a whim while you're in Europe already, Ryanair flies to Århus, Denmark from London. Reykjavik is a stop for many flights to other Scandinavian countries. But if you only have one night in Iceland en route to your final destination, I encourage you to rent a set of golf clubs and locate one of Iceland's 60 golf courses peppered island-wide. It's the fastest growing sport in the country and is played both in winter and at night... with a fluorescent yellow ball. Don't worry, the holes are buried somewhere in the snow. |
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