We found a bus route that would take us from Tucson, Arizona south to Los Mochis on the Sea of Cortez. Mochis is the western terminus of the Chihuahua-Pacifico railway, our ride into canyon country. Most people know about the Copper Canyon area because of this famous railway. It is considered an engineering marvel. During its journey from the coastal lowlands into the higher and more rugged interior, the train crosses 39 bridges and travels through 86 tunnels. One tunnel is over a mile long and the train will complete a 180 degree turn before emerging on the other side. Two trains run each direction everyday. The Primera Express which is the first class train, makes fewer stops, has a restaurant and bar car and caters to the tourist market. The Clase Economica runs much slower due to more stops and costs about half that of it's upscale predecessor. Food is sold by vendors and the train is filled with natives going about their daily business. After trying both options we found the Clase Economica train infinitely more interesting and enjoyable although much more time consuming.
After a 13 hour bus trip and a 10 hour train ride under our belts we were finally in Creel. Creel is the most reasonable place to orchestrate canyon trips. Located near the rim and railway, the town offers supplies, lodging, maps, guides and info. It is also a great place to meet fellow travelers and share tips at the many guesthouses and hotels. Margarita's, the guesthouse where we stayed in Creel, arranges tours. From here, we hopped a ride to Batopilas. Batopilas is an old silver mining town located almost 6000 feet down at the bottom of Batopilas Canyon.
From the Canyon rim we jostled down a single lane dirt road for six hours. The views were outrageous. You could peer out the window and into the abyss and see the road spiraling and twisting through hairpin turns into the canyon depths below.
Batopilas is a great little town. It is a linear town that runs along the river of the same name. We used it as a starting point for our hike but we would have been content spending several days there. Eight kilometers out of town is the Catedral Perdida ("Lost Cathedral") of Satevo. There is no record of when or why this beautiful Mission was built but it makes a lovely destination for a day hike. We hiked out and spent the night on a hill overlooking the church. One can also explore the ruins of the home of wealthy silver magnate Alexander Shepard. The decaying hacienda is covered in overgrown bougainvillea and crazy fig trees whose root systems spread wild webs along adobe walls. Batopilas is also where you can see Tarahumara men who still wear native clothing of brightly colored shirts and long loincloths. Most Tarahumara wear the ever present huaraches made from old tire tread and leather straps. The Raramuri (Running People), as they call themselves, wear these huaraches year round and run hundreds of miles at a time in them.
Our hike took us from Batopilas Canyon up and over and down again into Urique Canyon. It was 3 days of hiking straight up or straight down. We were passed handily by a local man making the same trip. We figured it took him just over a day to cover the same distance. Depending on whom you ask, these two canyons are the third and fourth deepest canyons in North America! This is important for bragging rights when you tell people about your trip.
The diversity we witnessed as we traveled 5,000-6,000 ft in elevation change was spectacular. We hiked from the tropical environs of Batopilas Canyon, where flowers bloom all year and papayas and mangoes flourish, up to the canyon rim where pine and oak forests cover the land. We could be seemingly in the middle of nowhere and come across a Tarahumara Rancho. It seems these gentle and shy people favor locations tucked high into hillsides and far away from anyone or anything else. The impressive views surrounding these ranchitos made their humble homes enviable.With the mountains of the Tarahumara covering over 10,000 square miles we only got a small peek into this magical place. The possibilities for exploring are endless. In addition to the dozens of hiking trips available there are opportunities for horseback riding, canyoneering, photography and much more. Don't forget that the Tarahumara are known for their weaving and basket making. Deals abound for these local treasures. The beauty of the people and their cultures along with the amazing and diverse landscapes will keep this location on our lists for visits to come.
Resources:
Mexico's Copper Canyon Country, A Hiking & Backpacking Guide by M. John Fayhee
Lonely Planet, Mexico
History of Copper Canyon and the Tarahumara Indians by Lumholtz, Shepherd and Fisher |
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